Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Aux Armes de Bruxelles

I am borderline obsessive-compulsive when it comes to creating travel itineraries. To that rule, Brussels is the exception. Literally, I just show up and go along for the ride. With a hyper-organized, large-living gourmand behind the wheel.


Marlon, who had his first Brussels experience, Uncle David style, a year and a half ago, said it was like being a kid again and letting your parents be in charge of everything. Which you kind of miss after you start working. And which is really nice.

I've never given much thought to things I wanted to do or see in Brussels; there was one time when I decided I wanted see what the vintage shopping scene was like and that was about it. I've never set foot in a museum. To me, Brussels is all about family and food. Like a vulture, I just swoop in and eat. And eat and eat and eat.


Saturday night dinner was in the centre of town, a few streets from the Grand Place. Aux Armes de Bruxelles is right across the landmark Chez Leon, tourists' go-to restaurant for Brussels' famous mussels ("more well known, but not as good," said our gourmand.)


The one thing that I forgot to do before leaving for Brussels was... go on a fast. That's because meals with Uncle David are always, always decadent three-hour affairs. Three courses, plus aperitif and at least one bottle of wine. And God forbid you skip one of those courses, even when you feel stuffed to bursting. That's just the way it is. It's tough, but someone's got to do it.


For starters we shared not one, but two plates of the raw mussels with lemon and mustard sauce. I must eat more raw seafood in three days in Brussels than I do in a full year anywhere else, sushi and all.


Marlon had the veal brain with tartare sauce, which certainly fulfills his restaurant criteria of "something I can't or won't make at home." It was surprisingly good, but too rich for me.


I had raw oysters, yum. I get a kick out of squeezing lemon onto the oysters and watching them squirm. Yes, they're still alive. So far Brussels is the only place where I can get live raw oysters.


For mains, I had escargot in puff pastry. "Snails as an entree?" asked Uncle David with a raised eyebrow. There are strict protocols, you know.


Marlon stayed true to his carnivorous roots and ordered the rack of lamb.


And for dessert, we had crepes flambees with vanilla ice cream. Mmmm.


We ended the night with a stroll around the Grand Place, which was gorgeous as always, especially with the lights shining off the wet cobblestones. I must have seen it half a dozen times, but it never gets old. 

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